How to install a dashcam: placement, cables and hardwiring
Where to mount a dashcam, how to hide the cable, and when to hardwire it. A practical installation guide, plus how to check on a computer that your camera sees what it should.
Installing a dashcam takes about half an hour, and most of that is tucking the cable away. Doing it properly gives you a better picture, a tidier car and, if you want parking mode, power that does not drain the battery.
Pick the spot
The best place for the front camera is behind the rear-view mirror, on the passenger side of it.
- It sits out of your line of sight, so it does not block your view.
- It looks through the part of the windscreen that the wipers clean.
- It is near the middle of the car, so the picture is balanced.
Check the rules where you live: some countries limit how much of the windscreen a device may cover. Do not mount it over a toll or inspection sticker that has to stay readable.
Level matters. Aim the lens so the horizon sits slightly below the middle of the picture: about half road, half sky is a good start. Too much bonnet reflects in the glass and wastes pixels.
Clean, then stick
Wipe the glass with isopropyl alcohol and let it dry. Press the adhesive mount or suction cup on firmly for half a minute. Adhesive mounts are more stable and survive heat better than suction cups. Do this at room temperature, not on a freezing or scorching windscreen, because the adhesive grips poorly.
A rear camera goes at the top centre of the rear window. Interior cameras for rideshare or taxi go on the front mount or on the rear-view mirror, pointing at the cabin. See the best multi-channel dashcams if you want more than front and rear.
Hide the cable
- Run the cable along the top of the windscreen, pushing it into the gap between glass and headliner. A plastic trim tool or a spare card helps.
- Go down the A-pillar on the passenger side. Do not run it behind an airbag. Most cars have the airbag label on the pillar. Route the cable beside the rubber door seal, not across the airbag panel.
- Continue along the footwell, under the glove box, to the power source.
For the rear camera, run the cable along the headliner and down the rear pillar, or along the door seals. Many kits include a long cable for this.
Power: three options
| Option | How | Good for | Downside |
|---|---|---|---|
| 12 V socket | Plug in the supplied cable | Easiest, no tools | Visible cable, usually no parking mode, the socket may stay on or off with the ignition |
| Hardwire kit | Connects to the fuse box | Hidden cable, parking mode | Needs a fuse tap and some care |
| OBD cable | Plugs into the diagnostic port | Easy parking-mode power on many cars | Not every car keeps the port live |
A hardwire kit has three wires: a constant (always on), an ignition (on with the key) and a ground. Connect the constant and ignition wires to fuses with a fuse tap, and the ground to a bare metal bolt on the car body. Use a multimeter or test light to find the right fuses, and check your car's manual. If you are not comfortable with this, have an installer do it.
The kit has a low-voltage cut-off that shuts the camera down before the car battery gets low. See dashcam parking mode explained for suitable settings and the different modes. A separate battery pack is the alternative if you never want to touch the car's own battery.
Set it up
Before the first drive:
- Insert a high-endurance microSD card and format it in the camera. See the best SD cards for dashcams.
- Set the date, time and time zone. Wrong times make footage useless as evidence.
- Enable GPS if your model has it, and set the parking mode if you wired it.
Tripframe cannot change camera settings, so do this on the dashcam itself.
Check the picture
After a short test drive, take the card out and look at the footage on a computer rather than the camera's tiny screen. Open it in Tripframe: it groups the clips into a trip and shows front and rear together. Step through a few frames, zoom in, and check:
- Is the horizon level and is the road well framed?
- Can you read number plates of cars ahead at a normal distance?
- Is there glare from the dashboard in the glass?
- Does the date and time on the clip match reality? Brands that put the date in the file name (see dashcam file names explained) make this easy to see.
If something is off, adjust the angle and test again. It is much easier to fix now than after the day you actually need the footage.